Starting a bird dog puppy isn’t much different than other kinds of dogs. Adequate socialization to people and other dogs along with good nutrition, abundant exercise and consistent expectations will go a long way to ensuring future success. But there are two additional lessons that can make or break a bird dog’s future.
These are the introduction to birds and gunfire.
Birds first!
In the puppy training programs we offer, we call this step “bird and gun introduction” and that’s not by chance. It should be approached in that order.
The most natural way to start is also the most exciting to a bird dog—birds. Love of birds should be in their genes.
The first step is to make sure the dog knows it has power over the bird. (We use carded pigeons and quail in our training. Both are good options.) Allow the dog to chase and catch a bird. We pull off some wing feathers so the bird can fly a short distance. Ideally, the dog will chase the bird, pick it up in its mouth and bring it back. Even if the dog doesn’t do all three steps, the most important part is to mouth the bird, proving it is bold and confident towards the bird.
Some dogs catch on immediately; some need three to four opportunities and a few will need more. If a dog isn’t showing great desire to get the bird, wait a few days and then try again. But once the dog has shown that it is bold, stop. We don’t want the dog to catch another bird that hasn’t been shot.
Gunfire.
While the desire for birds is genetic, getting excited at the sound of gunfire is not. On the other hand, a dog isn’t born gun shy. Negative association through improper exposure to gunfire or other loud noises can be difficult—if not impossible—to overcome.
The best way to introduce gun fire is when the dog is distracted by something else exciting. Again, we use birds.
Use a small-bore shotgun or training pistol and wait until the dog is focused on chasing a bird. When it’s in full-chase mode at least 30 yards, fire the gun in the opposite direction. If the bird introduction was done correctly, the dog shouldn’t even notice. If the dog shows any reaction to the sound, just ignore it.
One shot is enough for the first session. During the next several sessions, slowly start shooting sooner until you’re shooting as soon as the bird is flushed. Finally, wait until the dog is hunting and fire a shot into the air. If the dog looks for a flying bird, then it has made the correct association.
Finally…
Don’t take your puppy to the gun range to see if it’s gun shy. (It might be after that!) Don’t be in a hurry to get the lessons over. Let the dog set the time table. Don’t try to take shortcuts.
Proper introduction to birds and gunfire—in that order—isn’t something to take for granted. Most dogs will take to them easily and with confidence. But take your time and do it correctly. You’ll set the foundation for many years of good hunts.
Enjoy the process!
Photos above: Tana (Northwoods Blue Ox x Northwoods Chablis, 2012) enthusiastically chases a pigeon, catches and retrieves it. Photos by Brad Gudenkauf, owner of Tana.
Northwoods Roquefort, on left, and Northwoods Parmigiano (Northwoods Blue Ox x Houston’s Belle’s Choice, 2010). Photo by Chris Mathan.
The overall goal of any dog breeder should be to produce healthy, happy, well-adjusted puppies.
The further objective for a breeder of bird dogs that will be in the field as hunters or field trial competitors should be to produce dogs that travel well, handle stress and pressure, take training well and perform with confidence and style.
At Northwoods Bird Dogs, a final, crucial goal is to breed pointers and setters that are as good in the home as in the field. Jerry and I strive for puppies that have it all—including intelligence and temperament.
But more than good genes are needed; early development of puppies is essential.
We’ve found that there are five factors vital to early development of puppies. Some of these practices help foster a good attitude that will make them a better dog in general. Others actually begin the very earliest stages of training—even before the puppy is aware it’s being trained.
And it all starts when the puppies are at their very tiniest.
Health of the dam.
This is so important! Jerry and I believe the dam is key. Not only is her stamina and demeanor integral for whelping, but puppies are completely dependent on her from birth to at least three weeks.
Special attention should start as soon as she’s bred. Nutrition is essential and only premium quality food should be fed. We gradually increase her daily ration with a watchful eye on her weight. Her caloric intake will peak when she is nursing and will need about twice her normal amount.
The dam should be in excellent physical condition prior to whelping. She should have daily exercise with obvious care as she gains weight.
More subtle, perhaps, but equally influential is the dam’s temperament. Even before birth, puppies are influenced by her and they continue to interact with her until completely weaned at about six weeks. For example, puppies will key off her attitude toward people.
Buddy (Elhew G Force x Northwoods Vixen, 2013).
Super Puppy.
Several years ago Jerry discovered a program that was developed by the U.S. military to improve performance of their canine units. They named it Bio Senser which later became known as Super Dog. We call it Super Puppy.
According to Dr. Carmen L. Battaglia, author and researcher, the military’s study showed that “early neurological stimulation exercises could have important and lasting effects” on the dog’s brain in terms of ability to cope, adjust and adapt to situations. The study discovered that Day 3 until Day 16 “is a period of rapid neurological growth and development.”
The benefits are numerous:
• improved heart rate
• stronger heart beats
• stronger adrenal glands
• more calm and less disturbed when stressed
• greater resistance to disease
• mature faster
• better problem solving
• more active
• more exploratory
Super Puppy is a series of five exercises. For every litter, Jerry or Dan pick up each puppy individually and perform the exercises.
Bella (Peace Dale Duke x Blue Silk, 2007).
Environment.
We whelp and raise litters in runs adjacent to our own and other dogs. From the moment our puppies are born, they are subjected to various noises of differing intensities—whether melodious voices on National Public Radio or near-deafening cacophony of 20 hungry dogs at feeding time.
Ours is a working kennel with lots of daily training activity and barking. Daily chores also result in commotion and noise.
A radio is always playing softly in the kennel. We vary the stations from NPR and rock stations to country music and, during baseball season, the Minnesota Twins station.
Socialization.
This is surely one of the easiest and yet most fulfilling parts of our job. Jerry, Dan and I spend time each day with our litters. Whether it’s Super Puppy exercises or just cuddling, we pick them up, touch them and hold them. We also inspect them, look in their mouths and clip their tiny toenails.
When they’re about five weeks old, I introduce soft chew toys and sit in their run with them. They climb all over me and play with each other and the toys.
Walks in the field.
When puppies are about eight weeks old, we begin taking them for walks with an older dog. May, our Labrador retriever, is the perfect, gentle leader. The walks are short at first but gradually lengthen as the puppies mature. May isn’t a big-running dog but always stays in front—and so do the puppies. May responds to voice and whistle commands—and so do the puppies. May loves to stop at ponds to drink and swim—and the puppies learn those valuable lessons.
These walks aren’t in a manicured city park but rather are in real bird habitat of fields and woods. Puppies learn different smells and become skilled at scrambling over fallen logs and through shallow swamps and tall, grassy pastures.
Of perhaps even more value, Jerry and I let the puppies learn on their own—without help from us—on these walks. They learn the consequences of their choices and actions.
If we come upon a fence, we don’t help them but instead let them figure how to get through on their own. Sometimes one will get on the opposite side of a little creek and must gather courage to cross it. If one does get behind, we keep walking forward.
This post is adapted from a piece I wrote for Chris Mathan on the Strideaway website (http://strideaway.com/early-development-of-bird-dogs/).
Seeing little puppies on point is definitely exciting but that cute stance is just the beginning. Developing puppies into a top-notch hunting dogs or finished field trial performers will take years. The paramount time for that development is during the first few months of life.
Our goal is to raise happy, healthy, well-balanced puppies. Over the years, Jerry and I have developed a program that works. At a minimum, we feel puppies need:
• mental and physical stimulation
• exercises and introductory training to develop their natural instincts
• exposure to different situations, people and dogs
We also provide structure, stability and consistent rules. Equally important, though, we want them to enjoy life and have fun.
Detailed below are some of our puppy development and training ideas.
Time in the exercise pens
Ample time in our exercise pens allows the puppies to play and to rest at their choosing. We believe this freedom develops a physically sound dog with a calm, well-adjusted mental disposition. They also learn the invaluable lesson of how to interact with other dogs.
Barrel work
We put our puppies on a barrel where they learn to stand still with confidence. They love this exercise because they have our full attention and receive lots of praise through touching.
Retrieving
We encourage puppies to retrieve because they’re at a stage when they really want to please. Starting with a retrieving dummy we progress to freshly killed birds. A few retrieves two or three times a week is plenty and we always praise them lavishly when they bring the dummy or bird back.
Time on a stakeout chain
Especially when puppies are young and getting used to wearing a collar, we clip them to stakeout chain. They learn to give in and to be comfortable with restraint. They all struggle at first—some more than others—but all eventually do relent and relax.
Gang run
We gang run puppies from foot at eight weeks and later introduce them to group runs from four-wheeler as the next level in physical exercise. During these runs we also teach them to turn on a whistle, run to the front and handle to our voice.
Swimming and finding water
On our gang runs we swing by ponds. Not only do the puppies learn to swim (they follow May, our Labrador retriever) but they learn to cool off and drink. This method teaches them independence to find water on their own.
Some Simple Commands
We introduce preliminary commands such as HERE, KENNEL, and call their NAME using pieces of wieners as rewards. This encourages puppies to obey simple commands and create a positive association with people.
pa-tience (pa’shens) n. 1. The capacity to accept or tolerate delay, trouble or suffering without getting angry or upset.
For several weeks, I’ve been exercising three male littermates out of our Ox x Chablis litter and Molly, a female from Sean Derrig’s breeding. All are five months old. I run them off a four-wheeler and plan routes to pass ponds along the way.
At a very young age, the three males took to the water like fish. They loved to swim—but not Molly. She would ease up to the edge of the pond, get a drink and then watch. She was just as hot as the others, but unsure of the water.
This happened time after time….until today. When the other puppies jumped into the pond, so did Molly. She swam around and played like she’d done it all her life. It was so satisfying to see.
I didn’t teach Molly to swim. I just gave her ample opportunity and then she figured it out.
The key was patience.
There comes times when it is absolutely necessary for the breaker to go afield with his dog and do nothing but let the dog develop.
~ Training The Bird Dog, C. B. Whitford, 1908
Dogs develop on different schedules and at different paces. To get the best out of your dog, don’t rush it.
Remember this the next time you head out to work your dog. Be patient.
The best way to train a pup or dog is to let another pup or dog do it. ~ Bill Tarrant, Best Way To Train Your Gundog – The Delmar Smith Method
One of the tools we use in the education of our puppies is a stakeout chain. Sometimes called a chain gang, the stakeout chain is a long chain with huge eye bolts at each end through which stakes are pounded into the ground. Shorter chains are attached along its length to fasten individual dogs.
When first clipped to a stakeout chain, puppies are uneasy and often bark or howl.
The stakeout chain is also a great tool when traveling. It’s an easy way to care for multiple dogs…plus it keeps the dogs secure and out of trouble. We put them on the chain to relieve themselves, feed and water them and to allow them to simply relax and be outside.
Stakeout chains can be made various ways. For many years I have made my own and now know exactly what works best. My stakeout chains hold six dogs and are 32’ long. Six drop chains are evenly spaced about 65” apart along the chain and are 18” long. (You don’t want them too long or the dogs can get into trouble with their neighbors along the chain.)
We begin putting puppies on the stakeout chain when they’re about eight weeks old. They get accustomed to physical restraint in general and learn, specifically, to give to pressure on their neck. We attach each puppy to their own drop chain and then leave them alone.
The chain gives enough so that when one puppy tugs, those next to it get a tug, also. Most puppies are uncomfortable at first and bark, pull or sometimes, just freeze. In time, though, they give in to the tugs without thinking and that’s the response we want. The transition to the leash or checkcord is now fairly easy.
Within a bit of time, puppies are completely relaxed on the stakeout chain.
By leaving the puppies to figure it out on their own, we’re not perceived as causing the restraint. In fact, after they settle down and we bring fresh water, they think we’re the good guys!
In addition to ‘flocking’ puppies for exercise and handling, we also work them together at times on liberated birds. During these workouts they learn to read what the other dogs are doing by observing their body posture and tail action. They also get used to having other dogs around them and to stay focused with distractions. While reading the other dogs, they are attracted to one that is acting birdy and naturally learn to back (if they have it their genes), as the above puppies certainly do! Clockwise from left to right they are: Chardonnay, Moose, Chablis and Lager. Moose is by Long Gone Murphy and CH Long Gone Madison and the other three are by Blue Shaquille and Houston’s Belle’s Choice. What a fun group of puppies!!
Sure, a bird dog can be trained to do a lot of things but I’ve learned that it’s critical to evaluate the natural characteristics of a young dog. Among the many qualities I look for is how naturally the puppy wants to hunt with you and in front of you, physical traits and hunting focus.
Buddy Smith, a nationally recognized dog trainer, uses a technique
called “flocking” puppies. This is a favorite method of mine and one I
use often when working a group of similarly aged puppies off a
four-wheeler.
The
workouts start when the puppies are about five months old. In the
beginning I keep my travel length to 2-3 miles. During that 30-minute
period, the dogs travel 7-8 miles according to my Garmin Astro. I’ll
gradually increase my driving distance to 5-6 miles.
I vary
the routes so the puppies are continually stimulated by new cover. Each
route is dotted with ponds so the puppies can drink and cool down.
While
running the puppies, I call or whistle and increase my speed as I
change direction. If they get too wide, lag behind or aren’t paying
attention, they are soon running hard to catch up. Before long, most
start to pay close attention to where I’m heading when they hear a call
or whistle, even if chasing a song bird or butterfly.
During
these workouts I evaluate other natural characteristics such as gait,
carriage, stamina and range. I look for how a puppy drives from its
front and rear. I like a puppy that carries its head and tail high with
a happy way of going that says, “Look at me!”
I like a puppy
that spends every minute in the field hunting—one that gives me a quick
glance as it crosses and doesn’t come back to me. I look for an
athletic dog with good coordination, hearing and eyesight that can
focus on hunting while keeping track of me.
Besides all this valuable information I’m learning about the natural inclinations of a puppy, it’s a blast!
