In addition to ‘flocking’ puppies for exercise and handling, we also work them together at times on liberated birds. During these workouts they learn to read what the other dogs are doing by observing their body posture and tail action. They also get used to having other dogs around them and to stay focused with distractions. While reading the other dogs, they are attracted to one that is acting birdy and naturally learn to back (if they have it their genes), as the above puppies certainly do! Clockwise from left to right they are: Chardonnay, Moose, Chablis and Lager. Moose is by Long Gone Murphy and CH Long Gone Madison and the other three are by Blue Shaquille and Houston’s Belle’s Choice. What a fun group of puppies!!
Betsy and I try very hard to match our dogs with the expectations and requirements of our buyers……and to make sure the dogs go to good homes where they will have a great life. We are extremely happy to hear from new owners like Jim.
“Snoop (Northwoods Porter) is adjusting very well with his new surroundings. His kennel mates are accepting him pretty well. His human sisters are spoiling him rotten. He may have forgotten how to walk since he was picked up and carried so often. Thanks again for picking such a nice dog for our family.”
Even though I’ve been training bird dogs for more than 20 years, I
still consider myself a student of dog training. There is always more
to learn.
Many methods are available to further my education—most of which I’ve
tried. One of the best ways is by reading books and I’ve been
collecting books on dogs, hunting, dog training and field trials for
years. At last count they numbered 65. Some books are quite old and out
of print but remain classics. Others are newer and hip to current dog
issues. The following are among my favorites.
Be The Pack Leader and Cesar’s Way, by Cesar Millan
These books are definitely our picks for information about what a dogs needs from humans and what humans can expect of dogs.
Beyond Basic Dog Training, by Diane L. Bauman
Excellent book on basic dog obedience.
Bird Dog Training Today and Tomorrow, by Er M. Shelley
This one was published in 1921. Shelley was the first bird dog trainer to exclusively train using planted birds rather than wild birds. He is considered by many to be the “father” of training bird dogs using pigeons. His training ideas have stood the test of time.
Field Trials, by William F. Brown
Describes American field trials, including how they are run, standards of performance, their purpose and more.
How to Speak Dog, by Stanley Coren
How to understand and read your dog’s verbal and non-verbal communications.
New England Grouse Shooting, by William Harnden Foster
The ‘original’ bible of grouse hunting with fine bird dogs and doubles. We especially like his thoughts on grouse dogs in Chapter IV.
Troubles With Bird Dogs (and What To Do About Them), by George Bird Evans
Another classic. While you may agree or disagree with George’s type of grouse dog, he offers actual experiences under the gun from someone who has spent a lifetime hunting ruffed grouse.
Training the Bird Dog, by C. B. Whitford
This book was published in 1908. Whitford offers great insight into the psychology of the bird dog as well as that of the bird dog trainer. While some of his techniques have been outdated, there are many still applicable.
Sure, a bird dog can be trained to do a lot of things but I’ve learned that it’s critical to evaluate the natural characteristics of a young dog. Among the many qualities I look for is how naturally the puppy wants to hunt with you and in front of you, physical traits and hunting focus.
Buddy Smith, a nationally recognized dog trainer, uses a technique
called “flocking” puppies. This is a favorite method of mine and one I
use often when working a group of similarly aged puppies off a
four-wheeler.
The
workouts start when the puppies are about five months old. In the
beginning I keep my travel length to 2-3 miles. During that 30-minute
period, the dogs travel 7-8 miles according to my Garmin Astro. I’ll
gradually increase my driving distance to 5-6 miles.
I vary
the routes so the puppies are continually stimulated by new cover. Each
route is dotted with ponds so the puppies can drink and cool down.
While
running the puppies, I call or whistle and increase my speed as I
change direction. If they get too wide, lag behind or aren’t paying
attention, they are soon running hard to catch up. Before long, most
start to pay close attention to where I’m heading when they hear a call
or whistle, even if chasing a song bird or butterfly.
During
these workouts I evaluate other natural characteristics such as gait,
carriage, stamina and range. I look for how a puppy drives from its
front and rear. I like a puppy that carries its head and tail high with
a happy way of going that says, “Look at me!”
I like a puppy
that spends every minute in the field hunting—one that gives me a quick
glance as it crosses and doesn’t come back to me. I look for an
athletic dog with good coordination, hearing and eyesight that can
focus on hunting while keeping track of me.
Besides all this valuable information I’m learning about the natural inclinations of a puppy, it’s a blast!
Your dog depends on you for the necessities of life—food, water and shelter. In addition, though, a key responsibility is to stay abreast of your dog’s medical condition and to keep your dog as healthy as possible.
One of the best ways to ensure good health is by maintaining a proper weight. Studies have shown that a complete and balanced ration fed in amounts to sustain a dog’s ideal body condition can help extend its life. For hunters and field trialers, that means more productive years in the field with your dogs.
Ideal body condition is not an indicator of whether your dog is in top shape muscularly but more a gauge of your dog’s overall health and well-being. While an underweight dog presents its own set of issues, a far more common sight is an overweight dog. Just as with people, excess weight increases the risk of blood sugar levels, blood pressure and heart rate. Also, an overweight dog in the field tires more easily and is more likely to overheat on a warm day—both of which lead to inability to stay focused.
How to determine your dog’s body condition.
Nestle Purina Pet Care Center developed a system, the Body Condition System, that examines specific areas of the dog’s body such as ribs, waist and abdominal tuck. Based on observations of those areas, a body condition score is assigned. The scores range from 1 (Emaciated) to 9 (Grossly Obese) with the ideal condition being 4 or 5. To view the Nestle Purina Body Condition chart, click here.
Feeding for ideal body condition.
To keep your dog in ideal body condition, follow these simple guidelines.
Choose a high-quality dog food. We feed and recommend ProPlan Performance.
Feed the proper amount. To determine the correct ration, start with the suggested serving amount on the dog food bag. Use a measuring cup–don’t guess! Because the feeding amounts are merely suggestions based on an average, monitor your dog’s body condition. It might need more or less.
Don’t supplement with vitamins, minerals or table scraps. Too many supplements or too many high calorie treats can dilute the nutritional value of a dog’s diet, predispose them to obesity or cause a finicky eater.
Feed your dog at the same time each day.
By establishing a feeding routine and feeding the proper amounts, your dog should be eager to eat its food. (Also, if a normally good eater fails to eat, it could be an early sign of a health-related issue.)
Monitoring your dog’s weight and using the Purina Body Condition System will help you keep your dog in ideal body condition. This will take effort and observation on your part but will pay big dividends in the long run—both for your dog’s health and for more rewarding days afield.
For more information on the Purina Body Condition System as well as other dog health and feeding related topics, visit the Purina website at www.purina.com/dogs.
I’m Houston’s Image, call name Jake, was a 45-pound, tri-color English setter with a beautiful blocky head and square build. He naturally backed and retrieved and was an outstanding wild bird dog. Jake was stylish in motion and would take your breath away on point with his lofty pose.
Jake was bred by Paul Hauge out of his stud, Houston, and a double-granddaughter of CH Destinaire.
Jake
spent his early years as a guide dog on a hunting preserve in
Wisconsin. The first time I saw Jake, he was being worked with two young
dogs. Jake went on point and, for a brief time, the young dogs backed
him. Eventually they went in and busted his birds and, through it all,
Jake stood like a brick! During his tenure at the preserve he had
hundreds of birds killed over him.
Paul bought Jake and
sent him to us as a field-trial prospect. Jake could definitely find and
point wilds birds but one major issue became apparent. At the game
farm, he was basically followed as he went from bird to bird. In a field
trial, however, he had to handle to the course. He never overcame the
problem and it eventually eliminated him from competition.
In
the meantime, though, I had started using Jake on guided grouse hunts
and Texas quail hunts. He was a bit difficult in the grouse woods—he
could find grouse and stay on point for a long time, but the challenge
was to find Jake on point! He was awesome on Texas quail. He went from
covey to covey and pointed like a bull. One memorable evening hunt, Jake
pointed 12 wild coveys!
Jake was bred sparingly—probably
to fewer than five dams—and produced very nice dogs. We bred Blue Silk
to him early in 2006 and that litter of eight puppies turned out to be
exceptional. We worked six of them, including three females, Satin From
Silk, Blue Spirit and I’m Blue Gert. All three have been successfully
field trialed and have garnered placements in puppy, derby and shooting
dog stakes. In fact, I’m Blue Gert won the Region 19 Amateur Walking
Shooting Dog Championship at 29 months of age.
Even
though not widely known, Jake possessed extremely valuable genetic
traits to pass on to future generations. We are grateful for his
contribution to our bloodlines.
Working dogs on spring grouse is quite different from autumn training. The grassy cover is matted down and birds are frequently seen walking in front of the dog—quite a tempting situation for a young (or not-so-young!) dog—which also makes for great training. It’s common to flush two or more grouse in front of a point.
Shaq pointing grouse.
The spring grouse woods in Minnesota can be tough on a dog. The terrain includes spots of ice, soft mud, cold creeks and many obstacles in thick cover. It is no small effort for dogs to constantly twist, turn, jump and navigate and all at a good rate of speed. It’s important to have the dogs in decent condition. Some of our dogs’ worst injuries have occurred in the spring.
Jill pointing woodcock.
We love working dogs on spring grouse and woodcock…..and we basically have the woods to ourselves.
Directions to Northwoods Bird Dogs through Markville
• Just south of St. Croix Trail on Wisconsin Highway 35/77 (or approximately 10 miles north of Danbury), turn west onto N. Markville Road. • Continue for 3 miles to State Line Road and turn left, or south. • Continue .5 mile to Markville Road, or County Road 25, and turn right, or west. • Continue for about 11.4 miles to a T. • Turn right, or north, onto Tamarack River Road, or County Road 24. • Continue for 2 miles to stop sign and turn left, or west, onto Duxbury Road, or County Road 30. • Continue for about 6 miles. • Look for a blue fire number, 53370. That is our driveway. Continue past the house to the kennel at the end of the driveway.
Directions to Northwoods Bird Dogs through Finlayson
• At the T intersection a couple miles after Finlayson, turn right, or south, to stay on Highway 18. • Continue straight at next intersection, where road turns into Highway 23 West. • Follow for a couple miles, veering to the left by Rich’s Bar and across the railroad tracks where the road becomes the main street of Sandstone. • Turn left in downtown, following the sign for 123. Follow over the Kettle River and continue east for about 3 miles to a stop sign. • Continue east, or straight ahead, where the road turns into County Road 30, or Duxbury Road, for about 10 miles. • Look for a blue fire number, 53370. That is our driveway. Continue past the house to the kennel at the end of the driveway.
Directions to Northwoods Bird Dogs from Minneapolis/St. Paul
• Follow Interstate 35 north. • Exit at the main Hinckley exit, #183. • Turn east, or right, onto State Highway 48. Continue for about 9 miles to the tiny village of Cloverdale. • Turn north, or left, onto County Road 21 or Cloverdale Road. Continue for about 8 miles. • At the stop sign, turn east, or right, onto County Road 30 or Duxbury Road. Continue for 7 miles. • Look for the blue fire number, 53370. That is our driveway. Continue past the house to the kennel at the end of the driveway.
